How to mod a 21 pin Saturn

[DarekDavis]

I currently have a modded saturn 21pin I believe, but I would really like to get a White Japanese version saturn. I'm just wondering if there is something special I should be looking for when purchasing one, so that I can use the chip out of my other saturn. Also since I'm looking for a white saturn, if anyone here has one for sell please let me know 🙂 Thanks for all your help.

Darek

 

[Mugendai]

I'm kinda a noob at this soldering stuff so I was wondering if there was any specific type of solder I need to use. One of my room mates has some clear flux solder that's 60% tin and 40% lead. Thanks for the help.

VV Thanks.

 

[Scared0o0Rabbit]

63/37 is the best solder, but 60/40 will work. Just make sure you don't bridge any points and you should be good to go. Some people prefer to use solder with silver in it so that it's lead free, but that's more expensive (by a lot).

 

[nim]

Hello!

I've read the thread from the beginning. I've got a white japanese saturn, 21/32, it sounds just like yours mal.

Have you gotten any further on experimenting with yours?

Does there seem to be a way to mod it without soldering to the 32 pin IC?

I've never soldered and could take a while before I found someone who could do it.

I guess it's the 13th pin of the IC-soldering that sounds tricky for me.

You'd need a very precise iron to solder to pin 13 on the IC right?

should I prepare some kind of isolating walls around the pin?

Does the 13th pin lead to somewhere more exposed on the board?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! :¨)

Thanks for all the help sofar documented in this thread.

[edit] oh forgot to state, I've bought a modchip from jandaman (without A+B-bridged)

 

[mal]

No, I haven't done any further experiments. I kind of ran out of enthusiasm. *shrug*

If you've got a CD board that doesn't have the 33.xxx MHz crystal on it then AFAIK you'll have to solder directly to the 32 pin IC.

When I've soldered to a 64 pin IC (which is much finer work) I just lightly tin the wire and (using no other solder) apply heat to the wire while it is touching the IC leg. Once the solder has melted you just carefully remove the iron and let the joint cool. In my experience that makes a short between pins much less likely.

I'm not sure just where the 13 pin traces back to on that type of CD board, but there may be an easier place - I'm just not sure.

If you're not confident in your soldering skill practice is essential.

 

[nim]

Thanks for info! I hope I can help out with report on my results if I succeed.

Here are some pics of my cd-board. Please excuse my inkompetence but I wouldn't know which chip might be an oscilator-crystal so I'd be very greatful if you'd comment on whether I have a crystal or not.

thanks! ^__^

 

[mal]

Youre right about the first pic. The 32 pin IC on the left is the one in question.

The CD board in that Saturn doesn't have the crystal in question. See the two holes to the right of the 32 pin IC? That's where it would go if it had one. Why this type doesn't use a crystal is beyond me. *shrug*

 

[Chris5687]

cana nyone post some close up pictures of the inside of the satrn modded. So i can see exact;y how everything goes, i''m a little confused.

 

[mal]

I'll see if I can borrow a digital camera and post some new pics.

 

[Chris5687]

cool, i apperciate that

 

[Riddick]

not sure what i'm doing wrong.

no matter which way the mod/ribbon cable is inserted, all i get is a "whining noise" from the tv & the cd drive doesnt spin. No matter the configuration, this happens whenever the modchip is inserted.

could i have a bad chip? I got it from jandamn about a month ago & just now gotten time to install it

MK8000A

21 pin ribbon, 64pin IC

 

[HighFive]

Alright, alright, alright! Well, I thought I'd throw my experience in here, along with a few questions for you.

I have a model MK-80000A 64 pin saturn off of eBay (with the round buttons...I figured the older models would be easier to mod...bah!) I then bought a modcip from jandaman.com and received it 2-3 days (super fast and super helpful.)

Now I have it installed with the blue wire going right back to the center hole in modchip and the red wire going to the power supply. I've reseated the chip about a 100 times, but it will only treats games and cdr backups as music CDs (and it will actually play the music, so my drive and power are at least working.) So now I'm eagerly awaiting a new modchip from JM to try again.

In the meantime, I thought I post a couple of ?s. Number one, what is the 0014 vs 0019 jumper I've been reading about in all these posts? I've seen people reference the 0014 jumper about 10 times, but I haven't seen anyone ask/explain it yet. And number two, what the hell do I need to do to get this puppy working?! That's my all emcompassing question 😉 If you can answer that one, then to hell with question one...TIA for help y'all can provide->

[moinfo]Here's a couple of pics for y'all to peruse, hopefully they can help some of you out...[/moinfo]

 

[mal]

Originally posted by HighFive@Mar 28, 2004 @ 01:37 AM

In the meantime, I thought I post a couple of ?s. Number one, what is the 0014 vs 0019 jumper I've been reading about in all these posts? I've seen people reference the 0014 jumper about 10 times, but I haven't seen anyone ask/explain it yet.

Your guess is as good as mine. I don't know enough (read "anything") about how these mods work electronically. I know that the different bridge setting change he properties of the modboard, but I have no idea how or why.

And number two, what the hell do I need to do to get this puppy working?! That's my all emcompassing question 😉 If you can answer that one, then to hell with question one...TIA for help y'all can provide->

There are two things that you could do, and I don't think you'll like either of them.

1 - get a newer (32 pin) Saturn

2 - get an older (64 pin compatible) modboard

 

[HighFive]

There are two things that you could do, and I don't think you'll like either of them.

1 - get a newer (32 pin) Saturn

2 - get an older (64 pin compatible) modboard

Yep, that's about what I figured. I'm currently working on number 2, and I have to admit, I've already started window shopping on ebay for number 1.

Is there anything I can do to increase my chances of getting a 32 pin Saturn? I know you (Mal) have stated the model number doesn't really give an indiction. I also know I have an early version because of the round buttons. Will it increase my chances of getting a 32 pinner if I get a Saturn with the slanted oval buttons, or is it all just a crapshoot? What about if I get a late model import...hmmm?

 

[nim]

Both I and mal have a white jap saturn (among other sats for him) and the both of them have 32-pin IC's and missing a crystal right? (pics of my cdboard first on this page)

It might be a loose speculation but perhaps white saturns (round buttons) more often have 32-pin IC's. I wouldn't know as I've only seen mine. Does it seem like very presumptuous, mal? (btw, if it'd be probable, getting a white sat should be a good reason for it's looks too no? ;¨P)

 

[HighFive]

Round 02:

New modchip, no worky. I went with the same setup as described above and got the same results...opening animation, cd drive works, but it treats all games (originals and backups) as music cds.

So most of the JP import systems with rounds buttons (at least the ones you've seen) have the much easier to mod 32 pin chips?

What about the slanted oval button, newer model US systems? Can anyone confirm these usually do or don't have the 32 pin chips?

I'd really like to get an import system, but you have to pay a good penny or be glued to ebay (my friends are already considering an intervention) to get a good deal. That, and I'd be really disappointed if I bought one from Japan, and it turned out to be the exact same as the one I have now...so any help figuring out what the best "model" is to get would be greatly appreciated->

 

[mal]

Oval buttons on a Saturn indicate one of two types:

(my guestimations)

90% model 1 Saturns

10% 64 pin model 2 Saturns

So no, an oval buttoned Saturn is not the solution.

 

[HighFive]

I'm sorry if I keep re-hashing this, but I want to be clear before I make a purchase:

When you are saying oval buttons, do you mean slanted oval buttons (newer model) or circle buttons (older model)?

 

[mal]

Unless I've missed something pretty big, there is only one type of Saturn with oval buttons and it is the older model.

 

[HighFive]

Ahhh, now everything's starting to click...

The systems with the SLANTED OVAL buttons are the OLDER model, and the systems with the CIRCLE buttons are the NEWER model.

I just figured the opposite this whole time that because the older models look "better", so they must be newer. Sorry for any confusion.

One last question: are the 32 pin systems or 64 pin systems newer?

Because mal said:

1 - get a newer (32 pin) Saturn

...meaning to get a newer circular button (Model 2) system which should have a 32 pin chip

then:

Oval buttons on a Saturn indicate one of two types:

90% model 1 Saturns

10% 64 pin model 2 Saturns

...which kind of infers that the circular button (Model 2) systems usually have 64 pin chips, the opposite of above.

Basically, what i get from this is that if you would like to mod a saturn with the greatest chance of success, you should get a slanted button model 1 system, and just hope you are in the majority and you receive a system with a 32 pin chip inside.

[Sorry if I am being dense, I got confused early on and I think it all spiraled from there. But I do think it is important to clearly layout this info for anyone starting out here...once again, thanks for all the help]