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Pal to NTSC?
- Thread starter Sinbios
- Start date
It patches the disc image to match your Saturn's country/territory so that the BIOS will boot it. Video output format can't be changed by automatic patching - the color encoding is determined by the configuration of the encoder circuit, the vertical refresh rate is configured by jumpers on the mainboard, and code that affects the game's timing cannot be automatically identified.
Hey,
I performed the above mod to my PAL model 2 (32 pin) saturn.
I didnt do it exactly as described in the tutorial, I only cut the required track as I only wanted the ability to display 60Hz for now.
It all seemed to work fine, after about 20 minutes though the saturn would start to flicker between 50/60Hz and soon enough it would revert back to 50Hz and stop flickering. Restarting has no effect, but turning off then on I get back to 60Hz until some more time elapses (maybe depending on how long ive had the saturn off for) then its back to 50Hz.
As it is now I can consisitently turn the saturn on after its been off for a while and the 60hz display remains for around 20mins before 50hz eventually takes over. The only thing ive tried doing is making the cut in the track a little deeper wider but I no longer feel this is the issue, I mean the cut track results in what im after (60Hz) just strange that it only lasts for about 20mins before switching to 50Hz on its own. Is it possible the track still isnt completely cut and the heat generated in 20 mins joins the track back together? This is the only thing i can think of..
Any ideas greatly appreciated
Thanks
Trenal.
I performed the above mod to my PAL model 2 (32 pin) saturn.
I didnt do it exactly as described in the tutorial, I only cut the required track as I only wanted the ability to display 60Hz for now.
It all seemed to work fine, after about 20 minutes though the saturn would start to flicker between 50/60Hz and soon enough it would revert back to 50Hz and stop flickering. Restarting has no effect, but turning off then on I get back to 60Hz until some more time elapses (maybe depending on how long ive had the saturn off for) then its back to 50Hz.
As it is now I can consisitently turn the saturn on after its been off for a while and the 60hz display remains for around 20mins before 50hz eventually takes over. The only thing ive tried doing is making the cut in the track a little deeper wider but I no longer feel this is the issue, I mean the cut track results in what im after (60Hz) just strange that it only lasts for about 20mins before switching to 50Hz on its own. Is it possible the track still isnt completely cut and the heat generated in 20 mins joins the track back together? This is the only thing i can think of..
Any ideas greatly appreciated
Thanks
Trenal.
Is it possible the track still isnt completely cut and the heat generated in 20 mins joins the track back together?
Yes, or it is completely cut but still close enough together to allow some type of coupling (capacitive/inductive) to happen that eventually overcomes the initial state of the signal.
I seem to have fixed the problem now and it appears to be heat related.
I took the case off the top of the saturn and it ran in 60HZ for around 3 hours straight till i turned it off, with the case back on its the same deal of it lasting around 20mins till it auto switches back to 50Hz after blanking out.
So its either keep the case off or install possibly a PC fan inside? Anyone put a fan in their saturn? Should be easy enough using the same 5v source the modboard uses I would think.
So anyway would the 50 to 60Hz mod require that much more power from a PAL saturns PSU to cause overheating problems that were'nt present prior to the mod? It definitly seems so in this case.
Trenal.
I took the case off the top of the saturn and it ran in 60HZ for around 3 hours straight till i turned it off, with the case back on its the same deal of it lasting around 20mins till it auto switches back to 50Hz after blanking out.
So its either keep the case off or install possibly a PC fan inside? Anyone put a fan in their saturn? Should be easy enough using the same 5v source the modboard uses I would think.
So anyway would the 50 to 60Hz mod require that much more power from a PAL saturns PSU to cause overheating problems that were'nt present prior to the mod? It definitly seems so in this case.
Trenal.
cutting the track is not enough. You have left the chip pin signal in limbo, where background charge will effect the balance of the signal to the chip. obviously this is what is causing the flickering after time , not heat. . Not sure which it is meant to be, ground or 5V but you need to solder the cut wire to either Ground or 5V, the opposite to what it was before
Thanks for all the info.
I havent touched it since I put a fan in because it hasnt failed once on me in a few days of games playing. If it starts to play up again I'll try applying groud to the point (by cutting the track werent we cutting the 5v? so I would assume ground is what it needs, could be the opposite though as suggested, I havent seen this info anywhere)
Also the fact that it use to work flawlessly for 20-30 min w/o the fan was a bit wierd, I mean if the point in question strictly required either 5v or ground supplied to it and neither is wouldnt the system be affected straight away? Thats why I assumed a heat problem. I thought that point close to the cut track was only used if installing a switch for 50/60hz switching. In that earlier thread thats 7 pages long that discusses this mod the diagram in there just shows to cut the track if u dont need to switch back to 50Hz. So far so good with the fan inside and case on though, I used a fan from a broken dreamcast which fit inside the case and used the saturn power supply fine.
I havent touched it since I put a fan in because it hasnt failed once on me in a few days of games playing. If it starts to play up again I'll try applying groud to the point (by cutting the track werent we cutting the 5v? so I would assume ground is what it needs, could be the opposite though as suggested, I havent seen this info anywhere)
Also the fact that it use to work flawlessly for 20-30 min w/o the fan was a bit wierd, I mean if the point in question strictly required either 5v or ground supplied to it and neither is wouldnt the system be affected straight away? Thats why I assumed a heat problem. I thought that point close to the cut track was only used if installing a switch for 50/60hz switching. In that earlier thread thats 7 pages long that discusses this mod the diagram in there just shows to cut the track if u dont need to switch back to 50Hz. So far so good with the fan inside and case on though, I used a fan from a broken dreamcast which fit inside the case and used the saturn power supply fine.
Common misconception, when a signal needs to be 0v or grounded cutting the wire is not what is required. Easier to think of ground as -0v which would only be got if you connected to the negative end of the battery so to speak.
edit - The bridge needs to be connected to 5v , not ground for the 60Hz mode. The above statement is still valid though.
edit - The bridge needs to be connected to 5v , not ground for the 60Hz mode. The above statement is still valid though.
Saturn Mod
Basically, the vertical refresh rate/picture size of the Saturn is determined by the logic value at pin 79 of the VDP-1 chip. If it's 0 (ground) the Saturn runs at 50Hz, if it's 1 (+5.2V) the Saturn runs at 60Hz.
Wouldn't it be easier to just cut the 79th pin and do the soldering right there? Is it possible to the mod that way? Of course by still connecting it to either Ground or +5.2V.
Basically, the vertical refresh rate/picture size of the Saturn is determined by the logic value at pin 79 of the VDP-1 chip. If it's 0 (ground) the Saturn runs at 50Hz, if it's 1 (+5.2V) the Saturn runs at 60Hz.
Wouldn't it be easier to just cut the 79th pin and do the soldering right there? Is it possible to the mod that way? Of course by still connecting it to either Ground or +5.2V.
Cutting the pin leg and soldering to it is not such a good idea for a number of reasons.
One, you risk damaging the chip's other legs when cutting the leg.
Two, ic's are heat sensitive, especially surface mounted chips which are soldered at very exact temperture by very advanced machines that heat the solder on the board then quickly attach the chip, so its not wise for an amatuer with more than likely a general purpose soldering iron to even attempt. The further away from the chip you are with the soldering iron the better.
Three, if you catch the wire later on when dismantling the saturn for maybe another reason you risk pulling the leg off and then your in trouble. A lifted track can be traced further down the line and bridged, you lose a chip leg and your up that famous creak.
The guide that was linked earlier is a very forgiving way to mod the saturn. I did this 2 days ago successfully, the wire I soldered on is taped flat to the board all but eliminating the chance of it snagging if i do an future mods or maintainance..
One, you risk damaging the chip's other legs when cutting the leg.
Two, ic's are heat sensitive, especially surface mounted chips which are soldered at very exact temperture by very advanced machines that heat the solder on the board then quickly attach the chip, so its not wise for an amatuer with more than likely a general purpose soldering iron to even attempt. The further away from the chip you are with the soldering iron the better.
Three, if you catch the wire later on when dismantling the saturn for maybe another reason you risk pulling the leg off and then your in trouble. A lifted track can be traced further down the line and bridged, you lose a chip leg and your up that famous creak.
The guide that was linked earlier is a very forgiving way to mod the saturn. I did this 2 days ago successfully, the wire I soldered on is taped flat to the board all but eliminating the chance of it snagging if i do an future mods or maintainance..
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