Competition Pro Hilarious FAIL & fix
I'm going through all my "fail" controllers and accessories right now to see which ones I can repair and resell at the gaming convention. Most failures are simple. A little eraser or lube is all they need.
However, I have this one controller, a Competition Pro Series III by Honey Bee, No. SG-18
A couple D-Pad directions weren't working right, so I cracked 'er open. And to my surprise, look what I found:
*FAIL*!!!
They designed the D-Pad wrong initially. They made the PCB pads into a square-pattern instead of the proper diamond slot formation.
They they obviously discovered their mistake, and designed that thin PCB overlay that fixes the problem. The PCB overlay has 5 solder vias to connect the new buttons to the old buttons.
Unfortunately, the solder joints holding the PCB overlay to the main board weren't very strong. Probably bending of the PCB caused two of them to pop off.
To fix it I just hotwired the vias over to the PCB traces using short pieces of wire.
Works now. But I just think it's funny to see a really bad FAIL for the original PCB layout, and a hack-job to fix it up before shipping the product.
I'm going through all my "fail" controllers and accessories right now to see which ones I can repair and resell at the gaming convention. Most failures are simple. A little eraser or lube is all they need.
However, I have this one controller, a Competition Pro Series III by Honey Bee, No. SG-18
A couple D-Pad directions weren't working right, so I cracked 'er open. And to my surprise, look what I found:
*FAIL*!!!
They designed the D-Pad wrong initially. They made the PCB pads into a square-pattern instead of the proper diamond slot formation.
They they obviously discovered their mistake, and designed that thin PCB overlay that fixes the problem. The PCB overlay has 5 solder vias to connect the new buttons to the old buttons.
Unfortunately, the solder joints holding the PCB overlay to the main board weren't very strong. Probably bending of the PCB caused two of them to pop off.
To fix it I just hotwired the vias over to the PCB traces using short pieces of wire.
Works now. But I just think it's funny to see a really bad FAIL for the original PCB layout, and a hack-job to fix it up before shipping the product.