OK OK Last time I make this question

Let´s go straight to the point, I have just three questions:

1) Can a MODboard suddenly "die" burnt without affecting the rest of the Saturn? I used to have a MODboard but a few days ago it didn't recongnized any CD at all, then I retired it and violâ! My Saturn returned to life again but -obviously- can read only originals.

2)Can I use the A-B bridge method to avoid soldering the blue wire? I have a 32 pin chip, it's not too hard to solder the wire anyway, but can I still use that method to avoid soldering the Blue wire to the chip?

3)Can the A-B bridge method be used to MOD a japanese 21 pin Saturn? Because even when it's a 21 pin connector I have No idea where the correct chip to solder is, the PCB is way too different from my US Saturn...

I will be one happy man if anyone replied at least the last two


Staff member
I have an answer to one of your questions.

Yes, a mod board can just die, it happened to mine. Yet my saturn works fine when its pulled out.

No idea about the others.


Established Member
1- Apparently yes. I've never had one just die on me, but other people have.

2 - Yes. It was a CD board with a 32 pin IC that I first tried the 'A+B' mod with.

3 - Maybe. It depends on the CD board.

If the CD board is a Sanyo and there is no PC Trap (a small PCB bewteen the main board and CD board) it has been done and it may work for you.

If there is a PC trap, it may be possible, but unlikely, as so far only one person (out of many) has been able to get it to work.

If the CD board looks like a US 32 pin one, but has no timing crystal, the 'A+B' method doesn't seem to work. However, soldering directly to the IC still does.

Many thanks for your replies.

Then I will have to get another MODboard, maybe with jandaman.

It's a shame my brother took my Cybershot to his vacations, I could show you some pics of the Japanese Saturn, but as far as I can remember, it does not have such PC Trap; I have seen many US Saturn with 32pin chips, they have a green PCB, but these japanese Saturn has yellow-brownish PCB and looks like the one that has a PC Trap, but mine does not have it.

Another question:

After I find a mod for my Saturns, Which one should I keep, the US or the Japanese?

I do have a PAR 4M so playing most games is quite easy. What do you think?


Established Member
I'd keep the japanese one. Actually, I'd keep both.

Is there a reason that you need to get rid of one of them?
OK Here are a couple of pics of my Jap Saturn:



Do you think the A-B bridge method would work on it?

If it does I'll be a happy man... :cheers
OK OK I'll try to fix it...

EDIT: sorry, the other method I had (the .txt cheat) is not working, it used to work in other Forums but here it doesn't allow me to do it :(

Sorry pals, you'll have to copy the URL and paste it. <_<

DAMM geosh****es :damn:
Humm, a sanyo cdboard.. without a pc trap...

If that saturn can be modded (I think it can..) then A+B method will work, actually in those saturns that's the only way I know...

A+B method electrically similar to those methods where you solder a wire to a chip on the cdboard, in your case, you don't have those, so give A+B method a try :)


Established Member
I don't know if this will help you or not...

Originally posted by centaur2@Feb 10, 2003 @ 11:37 PM

Hi again,

I have discovered a solution to make the mod work.

The Sanyo drive uses 16 Mhz instead of 8 Mhz.

On the drive's bottomside you can still see where

the 8 Mhz component was meant to be mounted.

I simply attached the blue cable to the solder pad

that goes to pin 7 on the Sanyo chip nearby. Power

cable went to 2nd power supply pin from the TOP.

Blue cable goes to A. As I have a HST-0019 Saturn,

I jumpered 0019 on the mod.

And now, everything works fine. :D

I hope this information is helpful for all people

who have troubles with Sanyo drives.

Here are some pics:





Sebastian :cool:

Unfortunatley the links are dead.