Original NTSC-U/C Console with 50/60hz switch mod black screen no audio.

Hello to all. I apologize if this is in the wrong area.
A little while ago I purchased a version 1 NTSC-U/C console with known no video issue. The seller stated it might be a problem with the video port itself. I'm interested in trying to fix things, and this one has a switch on the back that caught my eye as I did not remember that in my brother's Saturn from years ago.

I received the unit, and because the console was jammed into a box the switch unfortunately broke off by the time it arrived. Doing some research I found that this is most likely a 50/60hz mod switch.

I dissassembeled the console and the there are 2 separate wires soldered from the post side of the metal switch to JP7, and 2 wires to JP10. The switch itself have 6 posts on it total, but again only 4 wires total going to JP7 and JP10. I currently do not solder, but I have most of the equipment, and have done a lot of research. I know this is not the same as actually doing it though. To me the solder job looks very clean and the cords we're nicely tucked in. Whoever did this apparently also put a security sticker that states if sticker is tampered with customer must purchase, and a large very official looking Sega Saturn sticker on the bottom of the console as well.

Prior to my dissasembly of the console I was in fact getting a signal per my TV, but it was just a different shade of dark, and no audio. Also the access light continues to flash with no disc inside, but when I install a game the spindle spins, but access light flashes for a few seconds, and then completely stops even though the game still spins. The system was already not working properly prior to the switch breaking off so resoldering a new switch will probably not help, but it the switch was bad???? I thought about just desoldering the 4 wires from the board if I'm fact the switch was faulty or causing the issue. I assume at some point it was working as a rental unit??? There may be other issues with this unit as well.

This may sound funny, and I may be way off here, but is there a chance that somehow the switch died and left the system stuck in nowhere land? I'm worried that if I just desolder it from the board the problem may resolve, or may be stuck nowhere until a repair gets it reset to the right spot. Again only guessing. I would like to replace the switch, but I'm not sure which to get as the current has six posts or poles, and all six wires are soldered to the switch even though there are trying technically only 4 wires connected to the board... Confusing. Plus someone already drilled a hole in the case instead of just neatly tucking it inside the battery compartment door area so???

I also wanted to add that if you look at the last photo of the motherboard there appears to be heat damage and possibly a chip missing? I found a video of someone with a PAL console of the same version and in the area that's flat with a golden color there is a silver metal chip-like device with 17.734 T.O.C on it. From what I can find that is a crystal oscillator. I don't know really anything about them, and I'm not sure if my version is supposed to have it. I'm fairly certain that the small silver chip just above the golden area is the crystal oscillator so maybe just a board difference? The odd thing is that no one has been in this machine since the security sticker was applied so if that chip was removed it had to have been for a reason, and presumably it was working at some point. The mystery continues.

I hope someone finds this post. .Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'd really like some input on whether I should just desolder the switch wires from the board or resolder a new switch. It will be easier for me just to desolder from the board as there are so many wires soldered to the switch itself.

Thank you very much for your time.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240705_162329254.jpg
    IMG_20240705_162329254.jpg
    4 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20240705_162540216.jpg
    IMG_20240705_162540216.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20240705_162532740.jpg
    IMG_20240705_162532740.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20240705_162854201.jpg
    IMG_20240705_162854201.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20240705_162528208.jpg
    IMG_20240705_162528208.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20240705_164921142.jpg
    IMG_20240705_164921142.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20240705_162713892.jpg
    IMG_20240705_162713892.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20240705_162402211.jpg
    IMG_20240705_162402211.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20240705_162641553.jpg
    IMG_20240705_162641553.jpg
    3.1 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20240705_163834979.jpg
    IMG_20240705_163834979.jpg
    3.3 MB · Views: 0
Last edited:
The switch is a region switch. If you have a Japanese or US Saturn, there's very little reason to add a 50Hz switch. It is very unlikely to be related to your issues, unless maybe it's somehow managed to fail causing a full short circuit.

The empty area in your last picture is just a place to tack down the oscillator X1 if they used one in a taller package.
 
The switch is a region switch. If you have a Japanese or US Saturn, there's very little reason to add a 50Hz switch. It is very unlikely to be related to your issues, unless maybe it's somehow managed to fail causing a full short circuit.

The empty area in your last picture is just a place to tack down the oscillator X1 if they used one in a taller package.
Okay, thank you. Yes, I agree this is a U.S. Saturn so I have no idea why they did this mod. This looks to have been a rental unit or for demos so maybe that is the reason. After researching my concerns turned more towarda a full short circuit or something else console killing. Also researching the symptoms it looks like the PLL chip issue as well. Any thoughts? Thank you again.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top