Resistor F1
- Thread starter Dud
- Start date
Actually if I remember correctly the actual ohms of the resistor is .5ohm, which is fairly hard to find unless you special order it(Radioshack doesn't carry 'em), your best bet when fixing the f1 resistor is to just take a pair of plyers and twist it around until the metal ends meet, therefore bypassing the resistor. Putting the wrong ohm resistor onto the board will work, but will cause problems with the jump pack and such. bypassing the resistor won't do anything detrimental to your system, just make sure your not constantly unplugging controllers while the system is on(which you should never do).
For all intents and purposes the f1 resistor really is an eyesore on the DC design as a whole.
For all intents and purposes the f1 resistor really is an eyesore on the DC design as a whole.
According to the FAQ about it on GameFAQs, it's better to go with a 10ohm because it will prevent the ports from blowing out again in the future. I haven't tried it myself (although I do have a DC with blown ports around here), but it sounds logical enough. If you decide to try the 10ohm, let us know your results.
I'm pretty sure it's a resistor, but like you said, it doesn't make a difference really. Adding a 10ohm will work but you're going to end up with problems with games you use a jump pack with and such(it'll go crazy and won't stop shaking), but if you don't use jump packs ever then I would go ahead and do it then. I've had this problem with 2 of my DC's and on both of them I simply bypassed it and everything worked fine, the F1 resistor is there to keep you from blowing out the controller port, but it's much harder to do than the 0.5ohm resistor they threw in there lets on.
Hmm... did it do this before the resistor blew? I'd make sure all your disc's are clean and maybe even run a laser cleaning disc through your DC(if the first idea doesn't work) and see what that does.
Do you use a lot of homebrew software or Copied games on your DC? Using software burnt to CD-R's can sometimes cause problems with the laser if they're extremely small in size. Like burning a copy of gameshark without any dummy data, I burnt out my first DC's laser doing that.
Do you use a lot of homebrew software or Copied games on your DC? Using software burnt to CD-R's can sometimes cause problems with the laser if they're extremely small in size. Like burning a copy of gameshark without any dummy data, I burnt out my first DC's laser doing that.
It's a fuse, hence the reason it's labeled F1. On a circuit board the standard electronic practice is to prefix resistor labels with an R as in R1, R2, R3, etc. Fuses are labeled with an F as in F1, F2, F3, etc.
Maybe there was a reason why the fuse blew and the Dreamcast still won't boot.
Maybe there was a reason why the fuse blew and the Dreamcast still won't boot.
Well, this is just an extra Dreamcast my buddy got at a garage sale for $3, and seeing as how I broke the link between the controller port board and it's cooling fan already, I'm not going to bother fixing it. It would be easier to get a brand new Dreamcast since they are so cheap now. Maybe I'll use it to practice soldering, I really suck at soldering. :banana
