Saturn directpad pro

I was trying to connect an old saturn controller to my pc via the paralel port and the directpad pro driver. But I messed things up (melted the port with the solder
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). So I need to identify the color of the cables in order to solder them correctly.

I need someone helps me to identify wich color belongs to each cable in this scheme. By the way, it is one of the oldest japanese saturn controllers (grey one).

Any help will be apreciated in order to save my controller
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Nobody has a clue in this? Can someone help me at least in how to find out the right connection of the cables?
 
I had a dead (or not, but the connector was thoroughly useless) Saturn pad that would have been perfect for this, but I can'tfind it.
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Anyway, if you don't mind opening the pad up, open it up and see if there are standard logic circuits in it. If so, I might be able to help you figure it out. I'm not sure whether or not Sega used standard circuits in any of the Saturn controllers though...
 
In fact, it has 24 pins (12 by side). It says:

SEGA

315-5789A

443 136

The controller has the following reference (external): HSS-0101

The board has this serial: 171-6830B

When I opened the pad I noticed that they were numbered in the board in this order:

1. white

2. black

3. green

4. blue

5. brown

6. grey

7. yellow

8. orange

9. red

So, excitedly I soldered them as the scheme showed and installed the driver: nothing happend (shit)
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I will invert the order and try again ???

Nobody has done this yet, to enlighten me?
 
Try setting your parallel port to SPP in BIOS setup.

Also, what version of Windows are you using?

Also, it looks like the DPadPro schematic might not give the pad enough power... maybe that's the problem.

There seems to be some confusion among the driver authors, who apparently have never actually seen a Saturn in their lives. Both the Linux joystick-parport docs and the DirectPad Pro schematics claim that Saturn uses a DB-9 as the controller connector...
 
I tried the 3 modes that I can set my parallel port; but I have not any positive result.

So maybe is the power problem you are refering to.

What's next? Trying to remove the diodes from the schematic or it won't work at all until someone else designs the connection again?
 
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