Saturn Jap/US Switch

Jaded God

Established Member
I was wondering if anyone had diagrams for the Saturn Jap/US Switch, I have looked everywhere and viewed Tony's page on it but it doesn't make sense to me...

I have a US Saturn Model 2 with circular buttons and its modded.

Taelon I know you have a region switch, and BJammz you too. If you guys could help I would appreciate it.
 
Well... I did have an EXCELLENT guide which actually covered four revisions of the model-2 Saturn and explained the differences in detail... but I'd have to search for it again. As before (see controller-wanted post), send me an email and I'll search the Web at home. Here at work, my browser is just too shitty to even try.
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As I recall gamesx.com has a fairly good (and fairly freshly updated) guide on the mod. As far as I recall (I've done 2 different model saturns) the jumper settings are the same no matter which version you are doing, the difference is where on the board said jumpers are located (and they aren't necessarily all right next to each other)
 
In any case, does anyone think there is any interest out there for a 20 pin oval button saturn with a region switch on it? I have one without a region switch, sitting in my closet, but if someone was interested I'd be willing to part with it either as is (or with a region switch installed).
 
Seems Rabbit is taking care of ya with this one, Jaded.
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Which is good because I can't even begin to think where that one guide I had came from.
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Well I live in Michigan, no where near the West coast. So way far away from California <_<

So I am still looking for diagrams so if you have any Rabbit I would appreciate them... You too Taelon
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I'd love to help you JG, but I've never really looked at doing the mod myself.

I ended up buying a US and a Japanese Saturn instead.
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Aaahahaha!
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I didn't think I'd find it again, but here it is!

Notice the document refers to US/JAP Saturns but has a link for PAL models at the very bottom
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----------------------------------------

9.6 How can I install a language switch?

----------------------------------------

By far, Jerry Lynds & Kirk Patten have provided the most reliable method

for installing a language switch on your Saturn. This information only

pertains to Japanese and US systems however, and have not been confirmed

to work with PAL equipment.

------------------------------------------------------------------------



* For the modification of the Saturn, you will need:

* Phillips Screwdriver, Standard Size

* Phillips Screwdriver, Small

* Flatblade Screwdriver, Small

* Sidecutters

* Pencil Tipped 15 Watt Solder iron

* (1) DPDT Switch, Small

* ~8" 6 strand ribbon cable, or 6 pcs 8" wire

* Needlenose Pliers with Bent Tip

* X-Acto or other sharp knife

* Drill

In its most basic sense the modification consists of hooking a DPDT

switch up across two pairs of two jumpers to allow you to alternate

between two jumper configurations conveniently. Currently, I am aware of

four versions of the Sega Saturn Hardware that are for sale. This

document details performing the modification for each of these versions

of hardware. There do exist other versions of this hardware (ex: the

White Saturn), but they do not differ signifigantly relating to the

modification.

___________

Disassembly

Before modifying any of the three hardware configurations, it is

necessary to completely disassemble your Sega Saturn unit. The jumpers

will be located on the main PC board, and in order to access them you

will have to remove this board from the unit. In all three versions of

the hardware, this is located at the very bottom of the case. I have

found it helpful to lay out the parts on a towel or some such to

facilitate easy re-assembly. Be careful when disconnecting wires and

ribbon cables, they are fragile. Note that on the newer versions of the

Saturn, you will have to lift the CD drive off its mounting posts, and

remove a small phillips screw holding the CD grounding strip to the

metal shielding. If you do not do this, you will be unable to lift the

drive, shield, or main PC board from the case. Take your time

disassembling the unit. There is nothing very difficult, but some

components are easily damaged, and it will be easier to re-assemble if

you take care to remember where the components are located. It is not

necessary to remove the battery from the PC board to perform the mod,

but it is a wise precaution. If you do remove the battery, your saved

data will all be lost.

______________

Wiring the Mod

The 6 posts of the DPDT switch will be referred to as A-F, as below. B

and E will be the center terminal designations in this document. An X

signifies that the connection point will not be used in the

modification. Simply connect the corresponding letters on the switch to

the corresponding letters on the main PC board for the version of your

hardware.

DPDT Switch

Left Right

A D

B E

C F

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Version 1

JP# LeftRight

JP11 F E

JP10 D X

JP7 A X

JP6 C B

This version of the mod is for the original version of the Saturn. This

hardware version will have the MPEG daughter board, and the power

connector will not have any notches in it. The jumpers are located in

one bank on the bottom of the main PC board.

There will be two small traces on the circuit board shorting JP6 and

JP11, or JP7 and JP10. You will have to physically cut these traces

before you wire for the switch to function properly. The common posts of

JP10 & JP11 and JP6 & JP7 are on the right side in both instances.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Version 2

JP# LeftRight

JP11 X A

JP10 B C

JP# LeftRight JP# Left Right

JP6 D X JP7 F E

In this version the power cord is notched. This version was manufactured

from approximately 8/95 - 3/96. You will have to remove two small

components from either JP7 and JP10 or JP6 and JP11. They are

unimportant and serve merely to short the jumpers that establish the

world area in which your machine is designed to operate.

JP10 & JP11 are located on the top of the main motherboard near the

center in the configuration shown above. JP6 & JP7 are on the bottom in

a side by side configuration like in the table above. The common post

of JP6 & JP7 is on the right, while the common post of JP10 & JP11 is on

the left.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Version 3

JP# LeftRight

JP6 X A

JP7 B C

JP# LeftRight

JP11 D X

JP10 F E

In this version the power cord is notched. This version was manufactured

from around 3/96 - 7/96. You will have to remove two small components

from either JP7 and JP10 or JP6 and JP11. They are unimportant and serve

merely to short the jumpers that establish the world area in which your

machine is designed to operate.

In this version of the hardware, the jumpers are all grouped together on

the bottom of the board. The common post of JP6 & JP7 is on the left,

while JP10 & JP11 is on the right.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Version 4

JP# LeftRight JP# Left Right

JP6 A X JP7 B C

JP# LeftRight JP# Left Right

JP10 F E JP11 X D

In this version the power cord is notched. This version was manufactured

starting 7/96, it is the second version that does not have a drive light.

You will have to remove two small components from either JP7 and JP10 or

JP6 and JP11. They are unimportant and serve merely to short the jumpers

that establish the world area in which your machine is designed to

operate.

In this version of the hardware, the jumpers are all grouped together on

the bottom right of the board. The common post of JP6 & JP7 is on the

right, while JP10 & JP11 is on the left.

___________

Re-assembly

In all four versions, you should be able to feed the connecting wires

from under the main PC board to a location near the reset switch. You

should be able to re-assemble the machine with the top not screwed down

and the switch hanging on the outside to test it. When you are ready to

finalize the mod, there is ample room to drill a hole in the top of the

case to the right of the reset switch. In all four versions of the

hardware, there should be room inside the case for a regular microswitch

in this area.



________________

Additional Notes

Again, if you do not understand part of this document, then it is not a

good idea to utilize any of the information contained herein. I do not

intend to answer questions about this from now until the end of time, so

only do this mod if you understand this document as it stands. I will

not answer questions about this unless I feel like it.

You should not have to cut or change any part of your machine except the

jumpers, and drilling a hole for the switch. You can even avoid drilling

the hole to mount the switch if you make the connecting wires long

enough to feed the switch out the battery access door in the rear of the

unit.

[John's note:] You can also cut a square hole in the battery door and

mount the switch there. The plastic is very soft and easy to work with

and it holds the switch nicely.

---

On the other hand, U.K. Saturn owners may find Tony Ross's guide more

informative, as he takes PAL modifications into consideration at the

same time. You can view that particular proceedure here:

http://www.trsoft.demon.co.uk/satmod.htm
 
Awesome Taelon your the man! Just one more question...

How do I know which version they are talking about they go from 1-4 on this guide... I have a US Saturn with round buttons so a model 2... Which would it be on this guide?
 
So basically by looking at gamesx.com I got that this is how the wiring goes...

switch1.jpg


and then this is how its wired to the switch

satmodswitch2.gif


This is all for a US Saturn to switch to a JAP... so its a US/JAP switch wiring is this correct how I have it?
 
Originally posted by Jaded God@Jun 3, 2003 @ 04:50 PM

How do I know which version they are talking about they go from 1-4 on this guide... I have a US Saturn with round buttons so a model 2... Which would it be on this guide?

Umm... You would know this if you just read the whole FAQ closely. The differences between the various revisions are listed in minute detail. Just see which description exactly matches your Saturn and you're halfway there.
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The diagram you posted up there is a bit confusing to me... jumper solder points look right, but whatever that TV-with-rabbit-antenna-style diagram is supposed to be, I don't know for sure...
 
Klak you really live in Detroit??? I live in Canton if you know where that is... right next to plymouth... 30 mins away from Detroit.
 
OMG! I thought for a moment you meant Canton, OH. That's like 20-25 minutes from where I live.
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