Anyone interested in doing a region mod for me?

Dud

Member
I want a US/UK/JP switch put in. Everytime I solder, copper pads get pulled off and things just break. You'd be dealing with a newer US model (MK-80000A) console. I'd pay, of course, either with PayPal or a Money Order.
 

Dud

Member
Originally posted by racketboy@Aug 27, 2003 @ 11:05 PM

Welcome to SX!

Enjoy your stay

Telling us where you live might help :)
Thank you.

I live in Chicago, Illinois USA.
 
Assuming that you haven't already lifted the pads on your saturn I could probably do it. I've never done a US/EU/JAP switch before (since you hardly ever find EU games and all lol), only the US/JAP one, but I imagine it wouldn't be too much different.
 

Dud

Member
Originally posted by Scared0o0Rabbit@Aug 28, 2003 @ 02:49 PM

Assuming that you haven't already lifted the pads on your saturn I could probably do it. I've never done a US/EU/JAP switch before (since you hardly ever find EU games and all lol), only the US/JAP one, but I imagine it wouldn't be too much different.
Actually a US/JP switch would be fine too; I don't know why I'd ever buy a PAL game. Yes all the pads are intact, I have two saturns, the broken one in case I need spare parts, and then a brand new one. I think for a US/EU/JP switch you just need a TPTT switch and two or three more wires.
 
there are a *BUNCH* of ways to do a 2 or 3 region mod. 2 region switches are easy.... remove the resistors and wire up jmp 6/7 and jmp 10/11 via the common point. attach a wire to +5v. solder the +5v lead to the center pin of a SPDT switch. attach the other leads to the other pins, and *BOOM* instand JPN/USA region switch.

you can sub out the SPDT with a DPDT. you can do more work by soldering leads to the uncommon points instead of the common points.

you can add in a 3rd region by pulling the resistor from 12/13 and attaching a lead there, then sending that lead to a SPST switch. attach +5v to the other side and you are set, using a 2 switch system.

you can use a TPTT switch to wire up the whole thing too....that should be fairly obvious, but good luck finding that switch.

you can use circuitry to produce the same results as a TPTT switch instead using a SPDT Cent. off switch.

i'm trying to get ahold of a digicam before i move...hopefully, if i can get to use one, i'll take some pix of the last system i modified....it can not be taken apart anymore without removing the solder components, but i don't thinl it's that much of a problem...unless someone decided to add A/V ports to the system.....damn it all, now i gotta figure out yet another way to mod these things *sighs*
 
yeah, that's what i meant.

i've got another mod idea or 2 in my head, but for now i wanted to look at your mod and figure out if i should alter the way my mods go in order to make room for future A/V ports or headphone jacks.

when i finished the last mod, i secured things with krazy glue. it helps during shipping, but on the saturn it makes it damn near impossible to undo a mod. In my case, my custom mod is secured to the top of the upper metal casing, so in order to do any further mod work, one would have to unglue my work, or unsolder it.

there are other "safe" places i could glue the mod to, but really, this was the best way for me.

/<
 

Dud

Member
I'm going to go with A Murder of Crows' services. Continue talking amongst yourselves. :smokin:

:flamethrower:
 
Yeah, I really like hot glue, Cause it holds well, is cheap, and is removable. You shouldn't need to hold the mod board in I'd think. I mean they usually stay in there pretty well don't they?
 
the mod i'm doing is a *LOT* more involved than a mod board.

i don't like hot glue because of all the problems i have with it....the stringy-ness is quite messy, and i work hard to clean and kinda "detail" the cases and mainboard...make them all purdy looking ;)
 
Ahhh ic, I misread your post then. Yeah I hear ya, but 99% of people will never see the mod board. And it's not stringy if you know how to use it :D
 
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