Hacking an X-Arcade for console X use?

Would there be any problem if I were to keep all of the microswitches connected to the encoder chip, and yet add more wires to the microswitches, to add support for other consoles.

Of course, I know there wouldn't be a lot of room to work with, for multiple gamepad hacks, because of all of the wires and such. The other alternative is to just connect them all to a db15 or db25 cable (for the solo version only) and then create external adapters, using like a radio shack project box, with a control hack, and a db25 connector/port.

The second idea would have the most support for various game systems, but it would also be the hardest and longest to do. The first would be a great idea, for just 1 game system or so... Either way, that'd also let anyone completely customize their button layout, because I've heard a few people didn't like the button layout, particulaly for the gamecube adapter.
 
You would need to disconnect the wires to the existing encoder, as it would get all confused. An idea I had, but got lazy about would be to wire a ground wire to one side of every switch, and to pin 1 on a db25 port, then run a wire from the other side of every switch to a single pin on the same db25 pin. You could then gut controllers for various systems and run wires from them to your db25 port. That's what I would do atleast if I wanted to make my x-arcade universal for consoles.

Edit: not exactly sure this is the correct forum for this either.
 
I don't know exactly how an X-Arcade is wired up, but it shouldn't "confuse" the encoder if you were to use a switch to lift all of the ground connections from the microswitches. That is assuming that they all end up going to one or two common points on the encoder.

Scared0o0Rabbit - Yeah, maybe it should be in tech help... paging Mountaindud...
 
I know from converting a joystick from one console to another, you always need to remove the IC to prevent confusion when using the new one, It'd be much the same with this I would image. With 24 buttons (or 12 if using a single player controller) if you wanted to have it switched, that'd have to be a helluva switch, or a helluva lot of switches.
 
You could just wire all of the "ground" connections from each microswitch to a single point that could be then switched between the two encoders.

As far as I know breaking the original encoders signal path at ground would just be enough, but if it isn't you could cut power to it as well.

Here's an example of what I'm trying to say

(excuse the crappy Paint pic)
 

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