I Building t3h c0mputar t00

Originally posted by gameboy900@Oct 9, 2003 @ 04:37 AM

The audio comming from the hard drive only happens if you don't mute the input channels. Once I mute the Line In, CD and Aux lines the feedback disappears. There's really little that can be done to prevent the radio interference from registering on these inputs under normal circumstances. With an OS like WinXP you can set CD drives to play audio CD's digitally eliminating the need for the CD and Aux inputs. As for Line In you would generally not need it anyway. For my TV tunner I have DScaler mute it (return to original settings) once I close the program. Haven't had a problem with it since.

Nah...that really isn't it. If you play anything - even a file containing silence - it'll stop the noises from the HD. The problem with the analogue audio is that even on the best nForce boards, they still use the same shitty DAC that you get with the Realtek onboard audio on cheaper boards. Obviously, if you use the digital output, this isn't a problem.
 
I really like my hercules fortissimo III 7.1 surround card. But then again onboard sound is always ass compared to non-onboard sound of comparable quality (or better obviously).
 
Dude you probably won't be hearing your HDD over your case fans anyway. I sleep with my comp like a foot away from me. I can't hear it unless i'm either installing something or it's compiling or rendering something. It doesn't go off when it's not activly being accessed.

BTW I have a maxtor 60 gig ata133 7200rpm hdd.
 
Everyone I've ever talked to that has used an ibm harddrive has hated it, with a passion. They are unreliable and die extremely young and premature deaths.
 
my friend who builds comps says IBM and WD are the only ones that he hasn't had probs w/...he says he can't stand seagates or maxtors. He has had like 5 maxtors go out on him I guess :-\....so I dunno
 
Originally posted by BJammzz@Oct 10, 2003 @ 09:23 PM

my friend who builds comps says IBM and WD are the only ones that he hasn't had probs w/...he says he can't stand seagates or maxtors. He has had like 5 maxtors go out on him I guess :-\....so I dunno

there isn't a brand that someone doesn't have stories about.

You just have to accept it.

Just back up your stuff.

The only way you can worry less is to get SCSI, but I doubt you want to shell out extra for that
 
actually it's not that scsi is more reliable or faster or anything, it's just tested more (which generally means they find out if it's unreliable and can fix it). That being said, even if scsi was more reliable, it's still not really worth the extra cost. You can set up a raid of ata drives and achieve the same thing.
 
Arakon has gone through several IBM drives in the past year or so. They are horrible drives. Not to mention that they stopped making them now.

Just stick to ATA drives. These days the drives are basically the same mechanism with a different controller board.
 
Dude maxtor and WD are the two big ones I'd go with one of those but any non-generic brand which is still in production today by any major company should be fine.
 
Originally posted by gameboy900@Oct 10, 2003 @ 06:00 PM

Just stick to ATA drives. These days the drives are basically the same mechanism with a different controller board.

This is one of those things that should be true - that reason tells you must be true if you look at the inherent differences between SCSI and ATA. It's not; the now-ridiculous SCSI/ATA market fragmentation refuses to die, and engineering efforts continue to reinforce it.
 
Originally posted by BJammzz@Oct 8, 2003 @ 09:31 PM

case: $159

cdrw: $95

hdd: $118

keyboard/mouse: $82

ram: $83

monitor: $219

mobo: $123

power: $93

processor: $90

vid card: $135


Somthings wrong there d00d....when a case costs more the a 120gb HD.....and whats with the k/brd-mouse price??? $25 topps i'd pay...

power $95....did the case not come with one?

......but i guess, if you want a p0w3rfu1 box...you HAVE to shell out on uber parts like these!......:p

bulid me one too!

:D
 
Hm come to think of it, I agree. Why would you need to spend tha tmuch on a keyboard mouse combo. I got me a simple 4 button logitech optical mouse and some black logitech optical keyboard for like 50 alltogether.
 
...they're wireless... that would be the reason for the cost. And after going wireless I would never go back to wired (I tried for a bit). I would suggest investing in a set of rechargable batteries and a charger though.
 
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